Muker, Swinner Gill

Your walk starts at the north side of the village so from the Muker tearooms and village store walk along the access road as it swings round to the left past the Institute, and keeping the Public Hall and the Post Office on your right follow the lane and a cast iron sign post marked Keld. Continue along this lane and shortly after pass the Old Vicarage on your left. As tarmac changes to stone pass through a field gate and continue along this rough track as it climbs steeply away from the village and on to the fell side. Entering the stone folds high on the fell your route is bound on each side by stone walls. Pass through a gate and disregard a similar opening in the wall for this is the access for Kisdon Farm. From here your route joins the Pennine Way at Kisdon Farm East. A small cottage nestled between two barns banked into the hillside still in productive use for storing winter fodder. From here a grassy path swings right behind the cottage and climbs steadily toward a ladder stile, cross the stile and continue along the path to traverse the fell side before reaching a gated stile. This is a good area to search out a rock outcrop to sit on for a while, take in the extensive views beyond Rampsholme down Swaledale and view your return route far below you along the Swale Gorge, sometimes referred to as 'Little Switzerland'.

Having passed through the stile your traverse continues along this terrace with a lichen covered wall to your right. The lichen is so white, it looks as though someone has been whitewashing the stone. Pick your way across this rock strewn path and scree from the fell side above until you reach another stile. Once on the other side this damp fertile ground is covered with primroses in early spring and eventually smothered by bracken that proliferates in this area. Continue along this corridor of bracken that chokes the path in summer crossing small hillside springs before joining a copse of Silver Birches and Rowans on your right.

Pass through a gap in the wall and in a short distance three paths converge at a junction marked by a wooden finger post, follow the direction for Keld and continue North Westerly along this narrow gorge path as it merges into a hedge lined approach to the village. Keld is a quite peaceful place and the farm house tearoom garden is an ideal spot for a break.

Retrace your steps for a short distance to the path that drops away steeply to your left to cross the footbridge over the river and to East Gill falls. The path climbs away from the river and swings round to the right. It is at this point that we leave the Pennine Way. Pass through the gate above the falls and continue your ascent in an Easterly direction along this wide stone bridleway and through another gate where the path levels out above West Wood with its Pheasant feeders alongside a post and wire fence. Continue along this distinctive track as it swings left and then right over the beck and past a small stone barn. In a short distance take a faint path to your left marked by the remains of an old Fergy tractor and continue climbing steadily until you see the ruins of Crackpot Hall to your right. The Hall was occupied until the early 1950's when the family were hurriedly moved out because of subsidence, the building collapsed shortly afterwards. Recent restoration works have conserved the building in its present state, take a look you can still see the remains of the old cast iron fireplaces.

Return to the path and climb steadily past the old Beldi Mine Blacksmiths shop now a home to Swaledale Sheep. Through a gate the wide path traverses a high terrace as you enter the upper reaches of Swinner Gill. Cross the beck and explore the old mine buildings and the Kirk entrance behind the water falls, the site of secret worship by those opposed to the Act Of Uniformity 1549.

To continue on your route retrace your steps over the beck bridge and within a few metres you will see a path off to your left, this is the descent into the Gill. This section requires concentration as the path is narrow and exposed, a simple slip would almost certainly result in a serious injury. Descend this narrow path as it weaves its way over boulders to join the beck, Using the boulders as stepping stones, cross over and climb out on a path that levels and skirts the steep gill side to cross a stile into Bracken covered ground. Follow this path until you reach Arngill Wood and use it's post and wire fence to guide you down the steep grass bank to the stone track below. Turn left and continue along this track in an Easterly direction as it follows the meanders of the river for approximately one mile. Leave the track and cross the river by the footbridge at Rampsholme. After crossing turn right for a short distance before passing through a stile in the wall to your left. The deep pools in the river at this point are home to some sizable trout.

Cross Muker's walled meadows through a couple more squeeze stiles along the flagstone path passing a field barn and through a gate, back to the village and the start of your walk.